The Valleys de Gredos - Fran Griffith (Head of Equine Adventures)

Fran Griffith (head of Equine Adventures) did our Mountains & Valleys of the Gredos last October. The ride was not perhaps quite what she expected but surpassed expectations in many ways....

Situated between the provinces of Avila, Caceres and Salamanca, the Sierra de Gredos is one of the wildest and least populated areas of Spain. It is a land of light and colour, of magnificent views and tiny villages, of ancient cattle tracks and Roman roads, of crystal clear rivers and shady forests.

The drive from Madrid Airport to Navarredonda de Gredos is about 2 hours. Guests normally arrive in Madrid mid-afternoon so they have time to explore the forests that surround the Parador de Gredos before dinner. Because I flew from Cardiff, I missed the normal transfer and had a private transfer by taxi to the hotel. The hotel was far better than I had expected... one of the first hotels of the Parador chain, this three star hotel is surrounded by pine groves, crystalline waters, rocks and diverse vegetation. El Alto del Risquillo, where the hotel is located, is one of the most popular viewpoints in the area so you have magnificent views of the Gredos massif, the Piedrahita and Bejar mountain ranges and the Tormes valley.

This hotel is the perfect choice for the first two nights of the ride. The rooms are all fully equipped and comfortably furnished and in addition to the telephone, TV, mini bar and other amenities some rooms also offer a terrace. The meals are fantastic, sherry and excellent house wines flow like water... and if you have the stomach for it (I am afraid I didn't), complimentary Spanish sparkling wine is available with breakfast!

The first days' ride is an easy introductory one around Navarredonda. We were collected from our hotel by Maria Teresa after a long leisurely breakfast (everything in Spain was leisurely) and transferred to the stables. Here we were introduced to our horses and given the opportunity to become better acquainted with each other in the small arena. I was given a fabulous bay Andalucian x Arab gelding (whom I nicknamed Roget after a previous equine love). He was soft mouthed, responsive, forward going and a real delight to ride and we 'bonded' immediately. A few minor adjustments were made to the tack and some advice was given to some of my fellow riders by Maria Teresa and then we were off on our adventure.

The mornings' ride took us through woods towards the source of the Tormes River. The pace was leisurely, enabling us all to get the feel of our steeds and get to know each other better. The ride was virtually full (Maria Elena takes a maximum of 10 guests) and comprised of two couples (one Canadian and one British), an elderly American (male), two British ladies who had travelled together and two women (including myself) who were travelling alone. This ride was the third ride with Maria Elena for the Canadian couple and the second for one of the British ladies. High recommendation indeed!

Before we knew it, we had arrived at a forest picnic site (complete with wooden table and benches) and been met by Emilio (Maria Elena's partner) and their two British helpers. After tethering our horses and rinsing our hands we were given a cold aperitif (icy fino sherry) and some local nibbles whilst Emilio made the finishing touches to fabulous seafood paella.

After lunch there was time for a siesta before remounting the horses for the ride back to the stables. During the afternoon the pace picked up and we were able to enjoy some long canters and trots along forest tracks.

The next day we were collected from the Parador after another leisurely breakfast. This was our first 'moving' day as we were to ride on to Navalperel de Tormes. The mornings' ride took us through pine woods and over meadows, crossing and re-crossing the Tormes River. A stop was made late morning for the obligatory (when in Spain....) aperitif, olives and local cheeses before continuing along rocky tracks to our lunch venue on the banks of the river. After a refreshing (even bracing) swim in the river a delightful lunch, washed down by red and white wine, was served in a small restaurant. After lunch we continued our ride, following the course of the river, arriving in the village of Navelperal de Tormes late afternoon.

Our accommodation here was at the Hotel Rural Cruz del Gallo, a small, rustically simple guest house. The horses were accommodated in a field right next to the guest house, so one could sit on the balcony sipping a cool beer and watch them roll away the various itches that are accumulated by a day under saddle. The more energetic of us strolled down to the river before sitting down to another fabulous meal washed down by local wine!

The Wednesday is a half day ride to Barco de Avila. The ride takes you along the Tormes River valley, along cattle paths and ancient pilgrimage tracks to the Hotel Puerta de Gredos, where you arrive in time for an excellent lunch.

The Puerta de Gredos, is a luxurious four star country hotel, situated a short walk from the 15th century village of Barco de Avila. The village boasts a couple of shops, a few bars and a medieval bridge across the Tormes. When the sight seeing palls, the hotel offers a range of facilities including a gym with Jacuzzi, Turkish baths and a sauna.

From Barco de Avila the ride continues via Hoyorredondo, the Corneja River Valley and St Martin de la Vega del Alberche back to the Parador at Naverredonda de Gredos. Although you need to be a competent rider and be able to tot and canter - this is not a fast ride. The emphasis is on magnificent scenery, great horses, excellent accommodation and outstanding food and drink! The cuisine is truly excellent and much consideration has been given when planning the meals to provide you with the opportunity to try as many different delicious local specialities as possible. The ride was far more leisurely than I anticipated and the accommodation far better than expected (or is the norm on a trail ride). This is the sort of ride where you feel you have had a holiday... don't expect to get fit and loose weight on this ride but you can expect to really enjoy yourself!

Click here for details of this holiday.